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Last week, on the very last day of February, we began the big cut back. I sent out a little prayer to the rain gods to provide us a dry window, for we had planned ahead and committed to a dozen pairs of hands to make a day of it. John and Johnny prepared for the big day the evening before with barrows, dumpy bags and a stack of planks to help us spread our weight as we ventured onto the heavy, wet soil. I fell asleep that night as the rain pattered once again on the windows and tried not to fret, but woke to quiet, grey skies and the task ahead made easier for being dry. 

Each year, the winter seems shorter and the mild wet weather this year has seen new growth beginning to push in the middle of February. It feels right not to interrupt the cycle by removing the cover and forage the skeletons provide, but there comes a moment when the push of new growth flushes and the spent growth from the last year begins to feel redundant. The giant fennels have been burgeoning for weeks now, seizing the winter as they would in their homeland of Greece. The hemerocallis are the real litmus, pushing through the splay of last year’s foliage, now mostly decomposed and pulled to earth by the worms. This is time and there is spring work to do. Splitting and adjustments whilst plants are waking from slumber, and the moment is optimum for change. 

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It is a good feeling to be starting the cycle of working the trees and hedges which we planted in the first few winters after moving here. It has now been fifteen growing seasons and the hard-grazed fields that stood still and empty are now boundaried with hedges that have had their gaps replanted and run plump and continuously into the distance. We look proudly onto the young orchards which are hunkered into the slope and provide shade for the sheep and fruit that litters the ground in the autumn. The pockets of woodland, which we planted as knee high whips to provide habitat, are grown enough to need thinning and down in the shelter by the stream, the young hazels in the coppice are ready to live up to the name we have given this area of productive woodland and begin their rotation of cut and renewal. 

In a decade and a half, we have had enough time to get to know the land by observing what we have planted and in turn to make educated decisions about where to go next. The perplexing failure of one of the medlar trees in the garden was monitored for the last four years as progressively the branches yellowed and then declined. I wondered if the roots had hit something under the new ground we had laid over the site of the old farm track. Or whether our ground might be too alkaline. Or perhaps it had fallen foul of a fungal infection. I foliar fed and applied sulphur pellets to acidify the ground with little effect and the tree continued to decline, showing no improvement.

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In the nebulous few days between Christmas and New Year I broke the spell of inertia and spent a day getting back up to speed in the fruit garden. With the light slipping behind the wood on its furthest arc and wintery incarnation, it becomes hard to see the detail by three in the afternoon, so a day of pruning is a measured exercise from start to finish and the measure in the day is a gentle way to reflect upon time.

I like to finish once I have begun a task and it is impossible to rush the detail of unpicking and then reassembling the end of year tangle of pruning and retraining the climbing berries. The tayberry is the more vigorous of the two plants that mark the beginning of the soft fruit garden and I wonder as I work what would become of this plant if it were left to layer itself as it touched down to form a great colony. A birthday gift layering was how our plant arrived from my friend Jane across the way and we love the tayberry for its tart, juicy fruit, which reflect its hybrid parentage, the summer raspberry and the blackberry, which follow on neatly once the tayberry goes over. Its neighbour, the ‘Oregon Thornless’ or parsley-leaved blackberry is always pruned second, for its stems are brittle and I want to know I have the measure of things before making a start. 

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After the big cut back that took place at the end of February and beginning of March, I made all the edits that needed to happen ahead of the summer. Splitting and moving plants and making additions and edits where changes might be needed for the sake of the new energy they provide. Next came the mulching, the finishing protective eiderdown which keeps moisture in and weeds and seedlings down. These tasks were happening right through until the end of April and just last week I was winkling plants in that I’d had sitting in the cold frames needing a home.

As apple blossom gave way to hawthorn in the last fortnight, the garden has reared up and away into the growing season. Bare soil and visible mulch swallowed up in fresh new growth and the handover from spring to early summer. If you haven’t caught those last few weeds in this window, they will become part of the borders and gaps that just a fortnight ago felt large enough to receive something new have quickly closed over. This is the moment you realise that, if you haven’t done it yet, then spring jobs are now best left until autumn.

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Tending a garden is a cyclical process. A series of loops that are mostly without a break so that, as the seasons roll one into the next, you return to where you started. A place that is familiar and every year more so, for the knowledge of the last revolution and the ones that came before. With every cycle our relationship with the garden deepens, we become wiser and better able to predict the next move, but every season is different and we must remain open to change. The impact of a cold winter, for instance, and the repair of unexpected damage, or simply the inevitable change that comes with evolution.

The garden here has grown by about a third in the last two years, with the extension of the Sand Garden and the bank above it, beyond the barns. Last summer was their first full growing season and the first revolution of getting to know the new ground. To stay on track with the maintenance of the additional garden we took on one extra day of help a week, so that between them John and Johnnie do four days a week. Now that the days are once again getting longer, Huw and I make up the difference at the weekends and in any time we can find. It is a carefully calculated operation and, with the knowledge that we need to start the big cutback in the main garden in the last two weeks of February, the Sand Garden areas had been cleared of spent growth and weeded by mid-February. Bar a final prune of any winter damage to tender sages and phlomis, once we feel the worst of the winter is over, we are done there until things start growing.

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A week ago the frogs started spawning, an audible orgy in the brooklime in the pond and a marker in the last week of February that it is finally time to get things moving, now that winter is nearing its end. We have been working towards this moment for an industrious three months, strimming the ditch ahead of the snowdrops, narcissus and primroses, clearing and logging a fallen tree and coppicing this year’s hazels to open up ground for more primroses and to keep us in sticks and twigs for the garden.

Next week we will start the big cut back, having left the skeletons standing for the life we share the garden with and for being able to witness not only their rise, but also their fall in the growing cycle. But before we start, we’ve made a push to complete the last of the winter pruning. In early January, whilst the sap was still in the roots, the grape vines were cut back to hard knuckles and their wall trained framework and the mulberry raised gently where it is beginning to overhang the paths. Cut much later and they bleed, the vine a clear sap, the mulberry’s milky, the nutrition for spring growth all too easily wasted with bad timing. The roses were completed in January, since their buds begin to break here in mild weather in February. Then on to the autumn fruiting raspberries, which are simply razed to the ground and mulched and the thornless blackberry and tayberry, which are intricately woven onto a framework.

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In October last year I spent a day sowing seed. It is an activity in which time plays a significant role. Time spent observing a seedpod, the wait until it is ripe enough to gather, but not so ripe it is already cast, flung or taken by wind or bird. Time spent in cleaning and sifting and in understanding how a plant invests in its future. The profligacy of an annual, the weightlessness of those which are designed to carry on the wind or those quite literally catapulted into new territories. Some seed is gathered from the garden, some collected from further afield or gifted with stories attached to provenance. By the time of the actual day of sowing and the lighting of the blue touch paper, you are already invested in a future.

A day of sowing is an intimate day of communing. Each plant with its own story and life cycle. Some short and for which you are safeguarding against loss. Some that are rare and hard to come by. Sometimes you simply want more, and seed is such a fine way to produce more if you have the patience to invest in the wait. A wait that will help to hone how you might use a plant or extend its reach in real time.

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This week I returned from my travels in Chile. The seared and otherworldly deserts of the Atacama in the north and the primordial highlands in the south where the araucaria forests literally step you back in time. The feeling of being so very far from home was driven in part by being tucked on the other side of the Andes, but mostly in the diametric reversal of the seasons. Where meadows were in full sway, jacaranda in neon blossom and the growth in the forests rushing to the longest day of their year. My return was to our shortest. A sensory jolt into dimly lit mornings, darkness descending in the middle of the afternoon and a garden giving in to its deepest and most peaceful sleep.

The lack of light is what carries winter’s weight for me, but I welcome the season in this country for its relative ease and the ability to keep working. Winter at Hillside is beautiful for being in landscape and exposed to all its nuance. To ground laid bare, to leaf mould mouldering and to the emerald green of the moss-covered paths. Even on the dullest of days, the sky is a myriad of greys, the folds in the hills differing saturations of greens, browns and sepia with low cloud hanging in the trees on Freezing Hill and moisture in the air. There is time to look in the winter and time to see what has been happening during the growing season now that branches are once again unclothed and revealing all.

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The great cut back this year happened over three weekends, starting at the end of February as soon as I saw new life, and finishing with time to assess the garden before mulching. It is a very good feeling when you finally decide to let go of what came before and embrace the change. A time you have been waiting and planning for and one that, this year, feels particularly good to embrace with the uncertainties that lie ahead of us.

The growth feels early now after the mild winter and, by the time we cleared the last bed, many of the perennials had already pushed into last year’s growth. Some, like the baptisia were a dream to pull away. New shoots in a perfect arrangement of expectation, the colour of red cabbage, the old stems toppled and splayed and waiting to be lifted. The sense of urgency was expressed in the delicate lime green of fresh hemerocallis foliage, which I wished I’d cleared around earlier but, standing back at the end of the day and with the volume of last year gone, it was good to see the established rosettes, each with their own character and story to tell so clearly mapping their territories. The new ruby foliage of peonies marching along the path, and the bright buzz cut of the deschampsia already re-growing from their shearing. Yet to emerge, the late season panicum are making it very clear that they are lying in wait and it is only at this time of year that you are able to make these observations. Put them on the wrong side of an early to rise sanguisorba and they will be thrown into shadow and not make it off the starting blocks. 

Baptisia ‘Caramel’
Paeonia ‘Merry Mayshine’
Paeonia mlokosewitschii

The window between cut back and mulching is a good time to look and I like to take a day or maybe two combing the garden to see where actions might be needed. The long-lived clump formers like the peonies and baptisia will go years before they need any attention. All I have to do there is give them their domain and restrict an unruly, faster-growing neighbour. Stooped and looking close to retrace the ground-map of rosettes, I make mental notes of what needs doing now and what can wait for another year. When all is laid bare is when you see the life cycles, when the runners give away their secret behaviours and the clumpers either make you feel at ease, because they do not yet need division and have life in them yet.

Those that will dwindle in the coming year and need re-vitalising exhibit this with a monkish bald patch in the middle of the plant where the new growth is moving towards fresh ground. I have deliberately steered away from perennials that live on a short cycle and have taken time, for instance, to choose asters that are clump-forming and need division less regularly than those that run or burn out fast if they don’t. But there are favourites that do take a little more time. When I put aside a whole morning to carefully retrace the runners from the Pennisetum macrourum I think about the Hemerocallis altissima that won’t need my attention. With plants you haven’t grown before or don’t know as well, you need to build in this time to become familiar with their habits and weigh up whether something is going to become an problem. The pennisetum comes close to being problematic but, when it captures the wind in its limbs in midsummer, the balance is fairly tipped. 

Removing runners of Pennisetum macrourum
Runners of Pennisetum macrourum
Hemerocallis altissima

Singling out the bald patches has not taken much time for there are just a few plants that are showing their age in this young garden. As it ages I expect there will be more and I will need to pace myself and anticipate action before it is needed, singling out a few plants each year that look like they need refreshing and doing so before the season is upon me. This year the perennial Angelica anomala and the hearty Cirsium canum have both required splitting. They have been fast to make an impression in the new garden, but are doing so at the expense of reliable longevity. I do not begrudge this quick turn-around, for their presence in the planting is strong and certain. In its early awakening I can see that the dark limbed angelica has moved away from the original crown with small offsets offering me plenty of material to pot up and grow on for the autumn. The most robust sections, with good roots, storage rhizomes and potential have been replaced in the same position with the ground regenerated gently by forking in compost. 

The cirsium were divided into three, the best part replanted in improved ground and the remainder discarded. This is hard to do, but it is a gentle giant and there is only room for a small number. Standing seven feet tall, glossy and without prickles but looking like it should, it is a plant with attitude which, like the pennisetum and the angelica, make up for needing a little more attention than the crowd. 

Lifting a division of Cirsium canum
Offshoots of Angelica anomala ready for potting up

Words: Dan Pearson | Photographs: Huw Morgan

Published 14 March 2020

We leave the garden now to stand into the winter and to enjoy the natural process of it falling away. The frost has already been amongst it, blackening the dahlias and pumping up the colour in the last of the autumn foliage. Walk the paths early in the morning and the birds are in there too, feasting on the seeds that have readied themselves and are now dropping fast. I have combed the garden several times since the summer to keep in step with the ripening process, being sure not to miss anything that I might want to propagate for the future. The silvery awns on the Stipa barbata, which detach themselves in the course of a week, can easily be lost on a blustery day. This steppe-land grass is notoriously difficult to germinate and a yearly sowing of a couple of dozen seed might see just two or three come through. My original seed was given to me in the 1990’s by Karl Förster’s daughter from his residence in Potsdam, so the insurance of an up-and-coming generation keeps me comfortable in the knowledge that I am keeping that provenance continuing. The seed harvest is something I have always practiced and, as a means of propogation, it is immensely rewarding. Many of the plants I am most attached to come from seed I have travelled home with, easily gathered and transported in my pocket or a home-made envelope. Seedlings nurtured and waited for are always more precious than ready-made plants bought from a nursery but I have learned the art of economy and sow only what I know I will need or think I might require if a plant proves to be unreliably perennial for me. The Agastache nepetoides, for instance, came to me via Piet Oudolf where they grow taller than me in his sandy garden at Hummelo. However, they are unreliable on our heavy soil and need to be re-sown every year. Fortunately, they flower in the same year and I can plug the gaps where they have failed in winter wet with young seedlings sown in March in the frame and planted out at the end of May. Agastache nepetoides. Photo: Huw Morgan Agastache nepetoides. Photo: Huw MorganAgastache nepetoides Over the years, as much by trial and error as by reading about the requirements and idiosyncrasies particular to each plant, I have learned the rules. The Agastache for instance will not germinate if the seed is covered, so they will fail to appear spontaneously in the garden if you mulch or sow and then cover the seed, as I usually do, with a topping of horticultural grit. The seed needs light and should just be gently pressed into the surface so that they can be triggered. The Agastache seed keeps well and is easily sown in spring, but the viability of seed is different from plant to plant. Primula vulgaris gathered and sown directly a couple of years ago saw seedlings germinate readily within a month that same summer. Last year I was busy and waited until September to sow, but the seed had already begun to go into dormancy, an inbuilt mechanism to save it in a dry summer. The overwintering process of stratification, which will unlock dormancy with the freeze, thaw, freeze, saw the seedlings germinate the following spring. The plants consequently took a whole six months longer to get them to the point that I could plant them out into the hedgerows, but I learned and will save myself that delay come the future. Molopospermum peleponnesiacum. Photo: Huw Morgan Molopospermum peloponnesiacum. Photo: Huw MorganMolopospermum peleponnesiacum As a rule the umbellifers tend to have a short life and the seed does not keep, so I sow my giant fennel, Astrantia and Bupleurum as soon as the seed is ripe and overwinter it in the cold frame. This year, for the first time. I have sown Molopospermum peleponnesiacum and, though it is a reliable perennial, I am keen to see if I can rear some youngsters. This ferny-leaved umbel is early to rise and I love it for the gloss and laciness of its foliage and the horizontality of its lime green flowers. I have it amongst my Molly-the-Witch peonies and their early presence together is a good one. I’m also simply curious to learn more about the life cycle of this European umbel, as I find I understand a plant better if I know how long it will take to become a parent and what it takes to get it to the point of seeding and germinating successfully. Paeonia delavayi. Photo: Huw Morgan IMG_0415(Paeonia_delavayi)Paeonia delavayi My Paeonia delavayi are the grandchildren of an original plant I grew from seed I collected when I was nineteen and working at the Edinburgh Botanic Gardens. The plants in the garden have started to lose whole limbs this year, which I am putting down to the heat, but it could just as easily be honey fungus. Having a few youngsters in the background is good insurance, but I am sowing the seed fresh because peony seed needs a chill and sometimes two winters before growth appears above ground. The first year is all about the formation of roots so, as a general rule, I never throw a pot of seed out for two years just in case. Asclepias tuberosa. Photo: Huw Morgan Asclepias tuberosa. Photo: Huw MorganAsclepias tuberosa This is the first year I have grown the tangerine milkweed, Asclepias tuberosa, and would like to get to know it better. It is said to suffer from winter wet, which is a given living where we do in the West Country, so my seed sowing is insurance again and a means of bulking up the little group I have amongst my black-leaved clover. The seed is exquisite, the claw-like pods rupturing on a dry day to spill their silky contents on the breeze. Reading up reveals that the seed also needs winter stratification, so I have sown it now in a lean, gritty compost to ensure it is free-draining and that the seed doesn’t sit wet. A gritty seed compost will ensure the seedlings search for nutrients and grow a good strong root system once they have germinated in the spring. I prefer to top dress with grit rather than soil to inhibit moss and algae build-up, which can cap the pots if they are sitting around for a while in the frame. Dianthus carthusianorum. Photo: Huw Morgan Dianthus carthusianorum and Achillea 'Gold_Plate'. Photo: Huw MorganDianthus carthusianorum (in second image with Achillea ‘Moonshine’) Although I like to sow most of my hardy plants in the autumn to avoid storing them when they could be beginning their journey, I like a few in hand to simply scatter about and help in the process of naturalising where I want my plants to mingle. The Dianthus carthusianorum are this year’s project, and  so I am scattering seed at the tops of my dry banks where I hope they will take in the most open parts of my wildflower slopes by the house. A cast of thousands is easily made up in a handful, but it takes only one to begin a colony. Words: Dan Pearson / Photographs: Huw Morgan Published 17 November 2018 We are sorry but the page you are looking for does not exist. You could return to the homepage