Sea kale has a fairly short season from late February to mid April and, unless you have space for a lot of plants, each plant can only produce a limited harvest. This scarcity, even in the home garden, means that it is not an ingredient to be fussed with. As with all forced vegetables, sea kale is prized for its delicate flavour and texture, so it is essential to choose companion ingredients that work to foreground its subtle flavour, which has undertones of asparagus, cabbage and nuts.

Like the first asparagus, the beauty of this earliest of garden produce comes from the simplest treatment – lightly boiled or steamed with butter or oil and lemon juice. Perhaps a scattering of herbs – tarragon for choice. An accompanying boiled or poached duck egg makes a simple spring lunch, while a hollandaise or butter sauce elevate it to something more suited to a special occasion.