The smell of elderflower is everywhere. Rain followed by sunshine has produced moist air that carries its flowery, musky perfume in drifts across the fields and down the lanes. It is strongest in the mornings when the air is still. It pools in the glades down by the stream and by the barns where it mingles with honeysuckle and eglantine to produce an intoxicating blend.

As with many other things this year, the elder is earlier into flower than usual. And, as with the blossom of plum, pear, cherry, apple and hawthorn, it also seems that it will be a bumper year for elderflower. Its more normal flowering time in mid-June always happens at one of the busiest times for us, with annuals to plant out, vegetables to sow and manage and a number of group garden visits, meaning that our focus gets pulled to the areas closer to the house. Combined with a run of wet Junes this means that for several years we have missed the opportunity to gather elder for cordial. Since many of our bushes are on the woodland fringe down by the stream and north-facing, we sometimes miss them completely, putting off to tomorrow what should be done today, lulled into a false sense of security that they will hold onto their flowers for some time yet in the cool. This season’s early start means that I have been able to gather the first blossom to appear and plan on making a batch of cordial this weekend.